Death_Reincarnated said:
Well at least one person (timewilltell) understood the lingo I was using with square-root.
I'm sorry I'm not educated to that degree but eitherway saying Square-root whilst meaning to say RMS is just wrong.
Death_Reincarnated said:
PMPO/Square-root basically means RMS but in the lingo terms thats how electricians/physicists and other experts in the field say it - its just quicker.
Square-root means RMS now??? so the dash '-' equals means?
Death_Reincarnated said:
When da f**k did i ever say that RMS=PMPO divided by its root square? OMFG seriously /FF especially you nelots.
Death_Reincarnated said:
(PMPO/square-root)=actuall power
Root square....... what is that??? you inventing new mathematical terminologies now??? I've only heard of the 'Square root' terminology.
Death_Reincarnated said:
I know my maths so please dont lecture me. Not my fault you dont know the basics and maths...otherwise you would not question what I wrote you would know what I was on about...like timewilltell knew. Just shows that only one person has knowledge about this issue.
I'm not the only person to question your logic and timewilltell did not agree with your theory either so are you having fun trying to build some credibility?
Death_Reincarnated said:
I agree with timewilltell in regards to getting a power supply with larger wattage (RMS) than what it requires to run the system especially if you are going to strees the PSU constantly. You do not want to run the PSU at its max (or close to) capacity all the time because it will degrade its life very fast. BUT the question you have to ask yourself is wether you really require that extra wattage on a daily basis and what kind of PC parts you have to evaluate what PSU wattage you need.
Suck up much? My thought is his opinion is overkill.
Thing is you wont be using your computer at max output all the time, majority of the time it'll be light internet browsing which is using 20%-40% of the entire computers capabilities so why buy such a large PSU? 650W - 750W mid-top end PSU is all thats required for the discussed specs but don't mind me, I've only run similar boxes for a few years without any PSU problems at all and yes they've been used for gaming too.
Death_Reincarnated said:
As for buying top end parts even though you have the cash...youre an idiot to do so (and this is aimed specifically at you nelots). Quality parts does not equate to TOP END parts like you assumed i said so, which i did not. In terms of PC parts youre better of, in many cases, to buy "last years" parts than fresh ones on the market since in couple of months they will become as you say...parts which sit in a random warehouse in the burbs. Which I wrote before yet you failed to understand it.
Did I say buy top end stuff in terms of the market? Learn to read because I specifically stated to buy Top end parts that you can afford as in within ones budget.
With your assumption that buying last years parts equal better value for money, I disagree since new parts will be engineered with improvements in capabilities, extra features and operational efficiencies. Those factors alone is enough to justify the purchase of newer parts opposed to last years stuff that may have been incorrectly stored.
Death_Reincarnated said:
YOU sir fail to read. The PSU can supply 100% of the power BUT only 60-80% on average will be utilised as electrical energy to the parts running at max since the some portion of the energy is dissipated as heat. I never said the PSU cannot generate 100% of its power. This all said, I still havent mentioned how temperature effects efficiency of an electric current passing through circutry and such...I think I can assume that you know its effects...or should I explain this as well.
And as for PSUs being labeled the way you (nelots)have specified.....they are always labeled RMS except like timewilltell said, tha maximum the PSU can offer OF RMS wattage at full load. So that 'coolmaster pro gold 1200' can offer MAXIMUM of 1200W with the efficiency taken into account at full load..which does not equate to 1440W like you said. Since this particaulr PSU is rated '80plus' it basically states that it can practically generate 90% of its maximum RMS power at full load which assuming it can have 100% efficiency then this equates to some 1330W. Now look at what I found (
http://www.kitguru.net/components/power ... -review/4/) this websited basically runs a test and what do you know at full load they manage 1321W. In actuality taking the efficiency into account (of 88.5%) this value drops down to 1204W. I seriously dont know where you got 1440W max power output..check your maths or better yet stop dribbling bobbla.
Some more reading for those interested.
http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6663
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_PLUS
Interesting, heres a screenshot of the manufacturers specs on the Coolermaster Silent Pro Gold 1200W
See the max output capacity is circled 1440W, output capacity is 1200W and see efficiency is 90% typical.
Just to explain to you that means, guaranteed maximum output is 1200W where the actual unit is capable of producing 1440W in perfect conditions but consumer goods will not be under perfect conditions thus that kitguru link was only able to pull 1321W.
Anyhow props to you trying to out play me in this, I mean I've only had practical experience with PSU manufacturers in china. That's nothing compared to your theoretical/garage tinkering experience gained through your childhood and schooling/uni work.