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Gaming computer???!!!

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Sisibouri

New Member
nelots said:
timewilltell said:
i would buy asus over samsung, i would definitely buy lg over samsung.
Really?
timewilltell said:
what me and others are saying is there is no point buying the latest and greatest as they start of at ridiculous prices and within 3months drop to almost half, so even if you could afford the best of the best you would be stupid to buy the newest bits out.
You mean you and D_R like to take my comment out of context to make a stupid point?
Either way new release products aren't always over priced and they certainly don't drop close to 50% within 3months. It is rare to have price drops over 30% within the first 18months of production unless new models, materials price drops or more efficient production procedures are introduced into the manufacturing process.
Finally people who buy the best is stupid? Really....... so people who are financially more stable with higher disposable incomes are stupid because they buy the best they can afford.......... nice logic guys, keep the lulz up, noob needs to work some of his curry flabs off with more face palms.
you really have no idea rofl!!

so what your saying is that they release a graphics card and then don't release one for 18months??
otherwise unless this is the case everything you said was pointless, seriously get a clue lmao!!

gtx580 is around $700 right now, in 3 months it will be at around $400 guaranteed,
within 3months drop to almost half
i was stupid enough to buy the latest and greatest gpu when i built my system, it was something like $699 (gtx280) in the first month they released like 3 new cards and the price on my gtx280 dropped to $399 the following month, i was spewin!
if your too stupid to work that out yourself, make the same mistake and enjoy wasting money, your just a tool man!
stop giving other people bad advice and stfu
 

Death_Reincarnated

Well-Known Member
OK so I did not articulate the "square-root" lingo properly to make sense for those who do not understand some of the technicality behind this BUT I did so also to check wether anyone has a clue...and it seems that not many do...so what is the point in talking to someone who has no clue about the technical stuff behind this...really no point.

1) The 1440W for that 'coolermaster pro 1200W' is the maximum it can deliver but honestly do you know what this means and what conditions must be met? Well let me explain it to you before you become cocky and think you know anything; this value simply means that the unit can deliver 1440W of energy in a burst, prolonged length at churning such energy and even at high(er) temperatures will mean that the unit will shutdown or worse yet fry it self and the PC. Now do you really think that a real case scenario when using a PC would mean you can draw that much power? This means it really is not a true value but its a fake value just like when sales people give a wattage number in PMPO rather than RMS.

2) I am not sucking up to timewilltell, not at all. Simply agreeing to the points he makes and I think he has made more valid points in this discussion than you have all together.

3) When I (and timewilltell) said buying a PSU that has more power than needed means you need to evaluate first how much (on average) you will use then have than bit extra otherwise you will work the PSU too hard too often and it will degrade its life and possibly even fry your PC parts IF it breaks. I never said go overboard and buy a god know how huge PSU. I have said that before but you, once again, missed the point and made astupid assumption which lead to false statements.

4) I appologise for saying 'square-root/ root-square'. It is just the lingo I have learned from electronics classes and working around electricians/scientists. Maybe not every group uses that lingo but the people I have been around seemed to use it and we knew what we were on about.

5) About buying top end parts that you can afford and this issue all together: I wrote previously that just because you have the money it does not mean that you should spend it on buying top end stuff - specifically electronical stuff such as pc parts and tvs. I did say that even if I had say 10K to spend I would not buy top end parts since its not worth it based on both personal and technical variables. The parts are overpriced and the suckers who buy it (and it seems you are one of them from what I have read) are really overpaying for the quality and what it offers at its initial stage of being released. As a perfect example - price of flat screen TVs when they first came out. You had to pay +10K and look how quick the technology made them better. So really just because you have the money it doesnt mean you should buy it even though its in your price range...as you suggested.

6) Name one electronical device which is not OVERPRICED when its initialy released - and you cannot use some "homebrand" style device as an example.

Seriously nelots you have little or no clue and your so called expertise has fallen short thus far.

Now going back to the OPs question on buying a gaming computer:

a) Decide what features you want it to have and what you will use it for.
b) Decide how much money you want to spend on it. Yes it does come second because lower end parts can still deliver these features BUT maybe not at the same quality if you were to pay more.
c) If you want to save money then buy the parts yourself and put it together. The PC I have (which I payed $1400 WITH monitor [$1200 for PC]) would have cost me around twice as much if I were to buy it all ready pre-packaged and from a firm/brand or from a retailer.
d) Search around to see what pc parts offer and how much they would cost - http://msy.com.au/ this webiste IMO is good to see good prices for parts.
e) Once you know what parts you want for your gaming rig try to find out how much power they would use and buy a PSU with about 30% more than what you have come up with. There are fewbistes which give you an idea how much each part would use power but if you want to be more concise then try to find out.
f) Quality and quantity has always been one of those dilemas but if you want a safe point then IMO get something in between. You do not want to overpay for the quantiy by getting a higher quality part but you also dont want to be cheap and pay little for some brand which offer high quanity but low quality and breaks too soon.

It does take time and research but in the end you will end up satisfied that you know what you are buying and if you want to upgrade then it will help you out.

It took me about 1months research in buying my gaming rig and im happy with it and I know I can always upgrade it any time. Just as a side note I have 430W powering a DVD, asus p5nd MOBO, 8800GT (512MB) GPU, 4GB ram, 320GB HDD, 4USB inputs and 4fans. I know I possibly would require around 550W but it came with the case and when I begin to see signs of PSU degradation I can simply put in a new one I also dont work the PSU too much since I dont crank up the graphics too high nor use many applications at once and such.
 

Trigger Happy

Moderator
Anything you buy in electronics is out of date the moment you buy it. The point being that if you wait 3 months for something better to come out to push a price down, you are going to want that next thing that comes out and off you go into a circle.
The point butz is making is that if you buy top end electronics within your budget, you will get the best. Who cares what it will be in 3 months, you pay the premium to get the best NOW not in 3 months. It is all relative to your own wants/needs/price. I will pay extra for a phone I want NOW rather than wait 6 months for it to come down in price because I will get 6 months worth out of that extra dosh rather than waiting for something new.
Those that buy the brand new thing first do so because they are early adopters and want the latest and greatest. If you have the dosh to do so then why not?
Personally, no matter what you buy in the end, buy it and forget about it the moment you get it. Don't look at prices after you buy any electronic whether it be a phone, computer, memory card/stick, TV etc because you will only disappoint yourself over and over.
So this is a tangent to the topic I guess, but the general consensus is that for your power supply, find out what you need and add some extra on top, that how much extra depends on your budget and what kind of PSU you get in terms of efficiency.

Cheers
 

Antagonist

Well-Known Member
Trigger Happy said:
Anything you buy in electronics is out of date the moment you buy it. The point being that if you wait 3 months for something better to come out to push a price down, you are going to want that next thing that comes out and off you go into a circle.
The point butz is making is that if you buy top end electronics within your budget, you will get the best. Who cares what it will be in 3 months, you pay the premium to get the best NOW not in 3 months. It is all relative to your own wants/needs/price. I will pay extra for a phone I want NOW rather than wait 6 months for it to come down in price because I will get 6 months worth out of that extra dosh rather than waiting for something new.
Those that buy the brand new thing first do so because they are early adopters and want the latest and greatest. If you have the dosh to do so then why not?
Personally, no matter what you buy in the end, buy it and forget about it the moment you get it. Don't look at prices after you buy any electronic whether it be a phone, computer, memory card/stick, TV etc because you will only disappoint yourself over and over.
So this is a tangent to the topic I guess, but the general consensus is that for your power supply, find out what you need and add some extra on top, that how much extra depends on your budget and what kind of PSU you get in terms of efficiency.

Cheers
one of the smartest things i think u have ever written.. summed it up perfectly
 

nelots

Well-Known Member
timewilltell: Really, I'm a tool now? if so what are you? preaching to people not to buy new release parts yet buying it yourself with the gtx280.
Also props on ignoring my entire comment and taking it out of context again to make another point about new parts being released.
D_R: Seriously do you bother to read other peoples posts or are you conjuring up make belief statements again?

1. I've already commented, 1440W is achieved through perfect conditions, consumer goods are never operated in perfect conditions thus the power rating is lowered to 1200W guaranteed max output but the unit can achieve anything in between 1200W - 1440W depending on operational conditions.

2. Yeah, timewilltell has made valid points,
timewilltell said:
pmpo has nothing to do with this, this is not audio.
He also advised to grab an 800W PSU for a system that really required 650W - 750W and don't forget, he thinks people who buy top end parts are stupid thats why he went and bought himself a gtx280 when he was building his new system.
Valid points indeed.

3. You never suggested what PSU to buy but timewilltell did, either way your formula was wrong so whats your point?

4. Yeah thats logical, you're trying to explain something technical with jargon to a group of people that isn't in the field. That's like hiring a Russian translator to translate Russian with some regional dialect of Russian.

5. Read what triggerhawk posted, he pretty much understands my views.
As for your views on flat screen TV's, when it was released, flat screens was a step up in consumer goods. So in terms of production costs, the intial 10K+ pricing was relatively cheap. Once flat screens became main stream, about 2 years later, prices dropped dramatically because more competition and manufacturers flooded the market. It's all relative to supply and demand and not overpricing.

6. Sharp Aquos LE700 range, released 4th qtr 09/1st qtr 2010, RRP around $1800-$2000 for 40," its a LED backlight HDTV and around that time similar TV's were retailing around $2500-$3000. Currently the TV retails around the $1400-$1600 mark which is relative to technology depreciation and the currently high exchange rates.
Alienware OptX AW2310, released around April 2010, RRP $500-$600, 3D Full HD monitor, 120Hz with 3ms response time that came with Nvidia vision kit. Now it still retails for $500 without the vision kit.
http://accessories.ap.dell.com/sna/prod ... 1#Overview

So yeah, who really knows what they're talking about now aye........ fallen short much?
 

Sisibouri

New Member
if your too stupid to work that out yourself, make the same mistake and enjoy wasting money, your just a tool man!
stop giving other people bad advice and stfu
thank you for validating my statement, im sure the guy that asked the question (a week ago and has not returned) has enough common sense to make his own decision and hopefully does make the right choices!
 

Sisibouri

New Member
nelots im sure you are not that stupid, as usual you just cant help yourself but be an idiot and try and make yourself look good and be heard.

perhaps that's because in the real world you are a lame dismal little geek that jerks off over the lingerie section of target catalogs, was always picked on at school and ran crying to mummy every time someone stole your lunch money.
perhaps even from time to time you thought about grabbing that bottle of pills from the medicine cabinet and maybe, just, taking a few, and see what happens?

but then you chickened out at the last moment, once again too gutless to face reality?
you make me lol
as you are definitely the only one that is reading only the bits you want, so you can try and turn them round to make an invalid argument, i am just going to leave it at that!
 

Death_Reincarnated

Well-Known Member
nelots said:
1. I've already commented, 1440W is achieved through perfect conditions, consumer goods are never operated in perfect conditions thus the power rating is lowered to 1200W guaranteed max output but the unit can achieve anything in between 1200W - 1440W depending on operational conditions.
DUDE...Just listen to yourself...look at the bolded text in your quote. There is so much fail in there its not even worth saying anything else besides /FFF. But just to make sure that you dont confuse reality with dreams. A perfect condition in such a case would suggest that PC parts be at constant and seriously low temperature (including the PSU) while operating at prolonged time. You seriously going to argue that in a real case scenario that PSU can generate 1440W?! Plus they say 'max power output' without definitively quaoting it to be either RMS or PMPO with(out) efficiencies taken into account. This is why I said it a money grabbing value put out so the consumer thinks OMG I HAZ MORE POWER...I WILL OWNZ YOU NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW!!!

nelots said:
2. Yeah, timewilltell has made valid points,
timewilltell said:
pmpo has nothing to do with this, this is not audio.
He also advised to grab an 800W PSU for a system that really required 650W - 750W and don't forget, he thinks people who buy top end parts are stupid thats why he went and bought himself a gtx280 when he was building his new system.
Valid points indeed.
Anyone can quote values of PMPO regardless of the device. It is most commonly found in audio devices but this does not mean it will stop anyone rating other devices in PMPO - PSU for PCs are a good example as they are required to be rated as RMS not PMPO. The reason why there are two values for wattage is basically due the electricity being three-phase generated. I wont go into more depth because there is no point. Just make sure that any electronics device with rates the wattage is in RMS not PMPO - Ive seen it happen before and not for speakers so just be careful.

As for grabbing a 800W PSU which really requires 650-750W - you still fail to see the logic behind this. I will explain it inthe most simplest ways possible ok: just because the PSU is rated to give out max 800W DOES NOT mean you will constantly use 800W. Heck you may not even get to 700W but its a safe point plus if you want to upgrade your PC by (say) installing dual GPUs then you already have the power supply for this setup.

He did mention he made the mistake of buying a GPU too early since he overpaid and could have waited a while. You really do overpay for electronics items at their early release - and there is nothing wrong with bargain deals, which im sure you have come across at some time, or are you so much loaded you dont wait for anything and just grab it the moment it comes out?

nelots said:
3. You never suggested what PSU to buy but timewilltell did, either way your formula was wrong so whats your point?
Formula wrong, which one? Oh and I did suggest what PSU in terms of wattage would be suitable based on the specs you have.

nelots said:
4. Yeah thats logical, you're trying to explain something technical with jargon to a group of people that isn't in the field. That's like hiring a Russian translator to translate Russian with some regional dialect of Russian.
If youre NOT in the field and have no technical knowledge of this topic then why do you persist on giving your opinion and bluntly suggesting that my and timewilltell's information wrong every chance you get?

nelots said:
5. Read what triggerhawk posted, he pretty much understands my views.
As for your views on flat screen TV's, when it was released, flat screens was a step up in consumer goods. So in terms of production costs, the intial 10K+ pricing was relatively cheap. Once flat screens became main stream, about 2 years later, prices dropped dramatically because more competition and manufacturers flooded the market. It's all relative to supply and demand and not overpricing.
triggerhawk=trigger happy? If that is the case then he pretty much summed up all of our views, not just yours; so dont bother getting on a high horse.

LOL at your statement about relatively cheap flat screens at the time of their release. I really dont know where to begin but here goes:
1) New items offer new technology with new features which equates to being priced way higher than a standard item. Best comparison is between plasma and LCD/LED technology. On average you pay around 1K less for plasmas than their counterparts - in some instances even less. This however does not make it relatively cheap if you compare what features are available and more so for PC parts which newer ones come out more often than any other electronics devices, thus logically speaking allowing to wait that little bit longer meaning you will safe money and still obtain an item with relatively large ammount of features. New items are always overpriced just because technology allows for more features but you have to ask yourself - do you really require those features or am I overpaying at this stage.

2) There always needs to be suckers who will pay top $$$ just so they can have the best item possible - but wait a while and someone will buy a newer item for top $$$ and that item will be better than the previous persons item. Which sums up one thing perfectly - both people will overpay for an overpriced item. Which once again you have to ask yourself - is it worth it or should i wait.

3)Items based on pricing or overpricing are basically due to supply and demand. The more people buy the lower the price, the less people buy the higher the price. Best example is price difference between primary and secondary batteries. Secondary batteries are far superior than primary in many ways but people dont buy them because of the price even though they would save you more money. If the supply and demand for them was higher it would drop down the price and it slowly happening.

4) So to basically sup it up - items are overpriced at their initial stages being on the market and there are several factors which affect the price you pay but if you way it all up then the smartest choice you will make is not to buy top item too early or better yet buy something mid-high range and you will be still satisfied with it...well unless youre one of those rich guys who needs to have everything the best and doesnt necesseraly use all of the features besides showing it off to others. Meh I prefer to wait and not have to overpay - that way I can get two or more items for the same price if I were to pay for one item.


nelots said:
6. Sharp Aquos LE700 range, released 4th qtr 09/1st qtr 2010, RRP around $1800-$2000 for 40," its a LED backlight HDTV and around that time similar TV's were retailing around $2500-$3000. Currently the TV retails around the $1400-$1600 mark which is relative to technology depreciation and the currently high exchange rates.
Alienware OptX AW2310, released around April 2010, RRP $500-$600, 3D Full HD monitor, 120Hz with 3ms response time that came with Nvidia vision kit. Now it still retails for $500 without the vision kit.
http://accessories.ap.dell.com/sna/prod ... 1#Overview

So yeah, who really knows what they're talking about now aye........ fallen short much?
Ahh but you see...you have forgotten that:
1) LED technology has been out for some time now and really its not something technologically unique which would overprice the item.
2) Both sharp and alienware (owned by dell) are really low key market penetrating compapies thus needing to lower their price so they can be competitive.

Keep an eye on the new Samsung series 9 LED (ua55c9000). Currently priced at 10K and the first model in this series was priced at 7K. Oh and why not compare the difference between series 7, 8 and 9. Specifically series 7 vs 8 and series 8 vs 9...and you will see what I mean by paying for an overpriced item in terms of features.

Ahhhh a wise man once said - Virginity like bubble, one prick, all gone.
 

G-Train

Well-Known Member
timewilltell said:
i would buy asus over samsung, i would definitely buy lg over samsung.
Rofl.

- a bazillion respect.

And D_R, omfg, i just dont know where to start with you anymore.....1st you say something stupid, then you write a 5 page thesis trying to quantify said stupidity. its pure comedy.
 

nelots

Well-Known Member
timewilltell said:
nelots im sure you are not that stupid, as usual you just cant help yourself but be an idiot and try and make yourself look good and be heard.
Well I thought you were doing a pretty scummy job at that front so I figured I'd show some class by farting on your fire.
timewilltell said:
perhaps that's because in the real world you are a lame dismal little geek that jerks off over the lingerie section of target catalogs, was always picked on at school and ran crying to mummy every time someone stole your lunch money.
perhaps even from time to time you thought about grabbing that bottle of pills from the medicine cabinet and maybe, just, taking a few, and see what happens?
OMG, thats like my entire childhood wrapped up into a paragraph. ARE YOU LIKE PSYCHIC??? Wanna read my palms after I scratch my nuts?
So just to continue with the fire theme, you must have been one of those school yard bullies back in the day, you know, the 'hey I'mma tough guy so I'm going to pick on the scrawny little kids to make myself look like He-Man' but in reality you really were a Ronely kid who was abused by his redneck bogan stepfather everytime mumsies was out right? Instead of the pill popping you opted for the manly thing of riding your bed posts or was it the cricket stumps set uncle cave explorer gave you on your 3rd birthday? So which one of them played jingle bells with you?
timewilltell said:
but then you chickened out at the last moment, once again too gutless to face reality?
you make me lol
as you are definitely the only one that is reading only the bits you want, so you can try and turn them round to make an invalid argument, i am just going to leave it at that!
Really, I'm the only one taking comments out of context for extra attention? Never mind your misunderstanding of everything I said but yeah I'm the only one with no clue.
So let's do a revisit,
Derpwilltell: buy things 3-6months old to avoid being a stupid ass who buys top end new release parts.
People with a clue: but derpwilltell, nelots only said buy topend stuff that you can afford.
Derpwilltell: Well if his too stupid to figure it out then he's a tool.
People with a clue: Really, so when I'm in the market to buy a new PSU, I should buy a 3-6month old budget series PSU?
Derpwilltell: YES, because buying any newer = you stupid!
People without a clue: Oh, thank you consumer advocate Derpwilltell. I'mma go out there and buy me a *insert generic POS brand* 800W PSU!
G-train: /face palm
Noob: lerl
Ama: *insert xkcd comic
Antagonist: /jesus face palm
Trigger Hawk: oh why do I even bother, derpy derp derp HOORAY!!
D_R: You tell 'em Derpwilltell, I support you 150%

P.S - I only had access to playboys and penthouse mags to fap with, where did you get those Target Catalogs?
 

G-Train

Well-Known Member
lol.

peeps really should stop quoting wiki to try and make themselves look intelligent when they really dont understand the subject matter.

its good for the lols though.
 

nelots

Well-Known Member
G-Train said:
lol.
peeps really should stop quoting wiki to try and make themselves look intelligent when they really dont understand the subject matter.
its good for the lols though.
STFU G OR I'LL RELEASE ANOTHER RIEWOLDT PIC!!!
Wiki quotes 4 LYFE!!! oh wait......
 

The Admiral

Well-Known Member
G-Train said:
timewilltell said:
i would buy asus over samsung, i would definitely buy lg over samsung.
Rofl.

- a bazillion respect.
+1. Samsung > LG any day. ASUS > Samsung though, I'd probably agree with. Not that they compete in very many markets (Laptops + screens only?)
 
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